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Bespoke/Tailor-Made Suit

The idea of a tailor made suit is that it is designed to fit you and only you. And as cutters are perfectionist by nature, we push this idea to the extreme. Here are few examples to explain that. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Picture 1 shows few examples of different figures of postures. If you want the complete types of posture, then the number will be equal to the world’s population. Apart from different measurements of the body, postures need to be paid attention in making the perfect suit. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



In the second picture show the different slopes of shoulders. This is one of the important keys for your suit to look dashing on you. It is not rare to find that your shoulder (between right & left) has a huge or slight difference in slope, an individual body is mostly not 100 % symmetrical. Therefore the tailor must compensate accordingly. 

 

The Process in Making the Suit


 

The first appointment: the order


The process of bespoke begins with choosing  of fabric from your tailor. There is no restriction on style. With tailor made suit the answer is that it is possible rather than it is not. It is recommended to bring your favorite suit when measuring. 

After the cloth has been spoken for, the cutter will take measurements from the body taking into consideration of your posture. It is best that the person measuring you is the same person who will be doing the cutting. He will need to see a picture of you in his mind whilst he analyses the measurement and creates a unique pattern for you. If necessary the cutter may take a photo of the client at the first appointment and fitting stages. The suit is then hand cut to your specific measurements and then hand stitched up to the ’baste’ stage. This stage is what differentiate the tailor made suit from made to measure suit where there is no fitting stages.

A ‘baste’ is a half made the suit that is not properly finished and only temporarily held together with white ‘basting thread’ using only the minimal interior construction, canvas and shoulder, pad etc. This allows it to be easily taken apart and remade. The baste garment has no pockets, unfinished lapels, no buttons and no button holes. 
 

The second appointment: the (first) fitting


At this stage, the cutter will look at how the suit falls on your body. The cutter will make notes and usually chalk several marks on the suit for it to be recut later on. The changes are then made to your suit and pattern. 

The fact that the suit is only basted together allows you the opportunity to dramatically change the style if you wish. For example there are no button holes on this garment so if you want to raise or lower the buttoning position it is possible. You also have the opportunity to narrow or widen the lapels or shoulders if you wish. These options would not be possible on a made-to-measure or semi-bespoke suit. 
 

The third appointment: second fitting


Your suit will now have all major construction, including pockets. The sleeves will be at the same stage as the baste stage. This will give you a truer picture of how your suit will look and also gives you a better feel of the suit. 

Final adjustment will be marked up and then carried out by the tailor. 
 

The fourth/final appointment


After your suit is pressed by the finishing team, now you can go off and enjoy the pleasure of your tailor made suit. But remember, cloth is almost fluid and none of us can tell how it’s going to react after it has been worn a few times. As a good cutter will not rest until your suit is perfect, your cutter will be asking you to see you again in a few months. Then he can make sure your new suit has settled properly. And most importantly you are delighted with the result. 

Sadly, there are people who are not entirely satisfied. And in most cases the problem can be easily rectified by taking the suit back, they do the worst thing, keeping it to themselves without telling the cutter. Remember, tailoring is very personal. Try to give your cutter every chance to get to know exactly what you want. 

All in all this process involves 60 to 100 hours of manual work by skilled craftsmen. 

 

Tailoring personnel

 

  • The cutter: The architect of the suit. Responsible for taking the measurements, drafting the pattern, cutting the cloth, fitting the garments and overseeing the whole process. 

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  • The undercutter: The cutter’s assistant, only chalking out the pattern onto the fabric and cut accordingly.

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  • The tailors: The actual builders of the project. They usually specialize. Shirts, coats, trousers are each made by different tailors. Most will argue which is more important the tailor or the cutter, but they are as dependent on each other as ‘needle and thread’.

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  • The trimmer: These are people who take the cut pieces of fabric and match them up with the linings and silk, thread color etc, before it is given to the tailors.

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  • The finishers: Responsible for making button holes, tying the buttons, felling the linings, and all hand-sewing needed to finish the suit.

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  • Specialist presser: Pressing is crucial and underrated part of the process. The suit is expertly pressed by hand in stages to allow certain parts of the suit to dry. 

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